Tag Archive for ‘sewing’

Profit From Brother Sewing Machine Repair

Published on February 23, 2009 in Crafts. 0 Comments
by David Trumble

Where is the best place to get a sewing machine by Brother?

There are two basic series of sewing machines made by Brother International. The low end models are sold through many mass merchants and over the internet under the Brother brand. Higher quality Brother machines are sold through local independent sewing machine dealers who are authorized to provide unrivaled service, support, and instruction. Better quality machines are sold under the Pacesetter label.

What do I have to do to get my Brother sewing machine fixed?

Obviously, Walmart does not provide any services when they sell you a sewing machine. So, you have to seek instruction, support, and repair services elsewhere. You have two choices. You can ship your machine to one of the regional or national repair centers indicated in your user manual. Or, you can check your local yellow pages for your local authorized Brother dealer where you have a full service center to meet your sewing needs.

One of the most popular brands of sewing machines today is Brother. There are literally millions of machines sold every year. Whether you are interested in low end models or the best of the best; you can depend on Brother. If you will support your local independent dealer, you will be thrilled with the unrivaled level of support you receive.

While a sewing machine should be professionally service annually, the user can keep their sewing machine running smoothly in between. Use only quality threads. Frequently clean out the bobbin area and drop one drop of oil on the race. Frequently replace the needle.

What is involved in learning to do my own Brother repairs? Brother is one of the first machines I learned to repair, and frankly they are among the easiest to learn. While you apply to become a dealer, you can also learn Brother repair through sewing machine repair courses at home.

In 1993, when I was first starting my sewing machine repair, I felt a need to attain certification from somewhere. To my delight, Brother International had a program to certify Brother Sewing Machine Technicians. I applied and completed their requirements. The company issued my certification and sent me a window sign to display Certified Brother Sewing Machine Repairs.

As a certified repair center, Brother paid me directly for any warranty work I did. If the sewing machine was out of warranty, Brother owners brought it to me and paid me for my services. Everybody won. As a fringe benefit, I was able to order wholesale Brother repair parts.

When we opened our first sewing machine store, I continued doing Brother Sewing Machine Repairs, but added the Brother Pacesetter line as our primary sewing machine line. We were very excited to have such fine line of sewing machines to sell. Our sewing machine repair business continued to grow, and we were very happy to be the official Brother Sewing Machine Repair Center. We also serviced all the other sewing machine lines.

When I service a sewing machine, I use a reference sheet with over fifty items to check off. However, the basics are pretty simple. Test to diagnose. Remove covers. Clean inside and out. Lubricate. Repair and adjust. Reassemble. Do a complete final test sew.

You can be proud of Brother. Keep your sewing machine operating in top condition. Learn to do your own repairs or open your own business. In every case, rest assured Brother is a brand you can depend on.

About the Author:
Discover more about Brother Sewing Machine Repairs from Dr. David Trumble's great sewing machine repair manuals. Pick up his free beginner's course too.
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Satin Stitch Magic

Published on January 10, 2009 in Crafts. 0 Comments
by Donna Trumble

Think of it, every stitch basically starts out as a straight stitch.

The sewing machine makes a locked stitch by drawing an upper thread around the bobbin thread and snugging them into a knot within the fabric. This locked stitch is hidden from the users view when the tensions are properly set. However, when the stitch is not performing correctly, the user may see puckers or bubbles of excess thread on top or bottom of the seam.

For over a hundred years, home sewing machines were limited to sewing a series of these stitches in a straight line or one after the other. This line of stitch could be adjusted for length between stitches. This enabled the sewing machine to produce very fine stitches, medium length stitches, and longer stitches. The longest straight stitch is called a basting stitch.

A huge change took place in home sewing machines during the late 1940s and early 1950s. Sewing machine manufacturers introduce a new feature. Instead of sewing only in a straight line, the new sewing machines could sew to the left and then to the right and repeat the pattern again and again. The zig zag stitch was born.

Like the straight stitch, the zig zag stitch could be adjusted. The user could still change the length of the stitch creating very fine zig zag stitches, medium length, or longer ones. Long zig zag stitches form zig zag basting stitches. The zig zag stitch, however , could also be adjusted for its width. The sewer could sew a narrow zig zag, a medium one, or a wide one. Today most sewing machines will have a 5 mm width capability, but a few better sewing machines today boast up to 9mm width capabilities.

The side to side stitching creates some dynamic visual effects that inspired increased creativity. Generally, these stitches are called zig zag stitches regardless of width or length, however, very long stitches are also called zig zag basting stitches. We call very fine or short zig zag stitches satin stitches.

To produce the best looking satin stitch, it is important to shorten the zig zag stitch until the thread actually lie snugly side by side. Be careful that you to shorten the stitch to the point where the threads begin overlapping one another. This can be unsightly. The width of a satin stitch may vary, however, if it gets too wide, the threads may not lie as smoothly as you wish.

The presser foot on your sewing machine makes a huge difference in your ability to sew a good looking satin stitch. The standard zig zag presser foot has basically flat bottom. When you sew a standard zig zag stitch, you have no problem. As soon as you start sewing a satin stitch, watch out. Due to the closeness of the stitches, they tend to get caught on the presser foot and bunch up. The solution is to use the specialty presser foot designed for satin stitching. This foot has a groove the entire length of the foot. It allows the satin stitch to flow underneath freely without problem.

Regulate the satin stitch just like you would a straight stitch. Set the stitch length knob to a very very short length. Then test the stitch. If you see gaps between the threads, turn the length a bit shorter. If you see thread bubbling up, out of place, or over other threads; slightly lengthen the stitch. This is an art, but once you get the right setting on test cloth, you should be ready to sew a beautiful satin stitch.

Sewing with satin stitches is just a bit more delicate than a simple straight stitch, but the recommended process for guiding your fabric is the same. Start by sliding the fabric edge under the presser foot and then lower the presser foot to hold it in place. Put your right hand on the right edge of the fabric three to four inches in front of the needle to serve as your guide hand while steering the fabric. Avoid every putting your right hand through the arm of the sewing machine. This may be a temptation, thinking you need to pull the fabric through or help it through, but dont. If the fabric fails to move through the sewing machine, there is a problem. Do not make it worse by pulling the fabric. Instead, allow the sewing machine to do its job while you steer the fabric.

Place your smoothing hand (left hand) on the top of the fabric to the left and in front of the needle to keep the fabric lying flat and flowing smoothly. Allow the sewing machine to drive the fabric through the machine.

When sewing curves with a satin stitch, remember not to turn too sharply. A gradual run will keep the satin stitch from leaving spaced between the threads. It may be necessary to slightly shorten the stitch length if you are find too many open spaces between threads along curves.

About the Author:
Professional Sewing Teacher Donna Trumble shares her dynamic sewing instructions. Learn basic sewing instructions in her free ebook Top Ten Sewing Answers.
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Amazing Stitches On Your Sewing Machine

Published on January 7, 2009 in Crafts. 0 Comments
by David Trumble

If you include all the hand stitches, sewing machine utility stitches, sewing machine decorative stitches, serger stitches, and industrial manufacturing stitches, you have a bunch of stitches. On a moderately priced home sewing machine you will find twenty to two hundred different stitches plus variations in stitch length and stitch width as well as stretch factors. A top quality home sewing machine will have eight hundred to a thousand different stitches. Many sewing machines include multiple sets of alphabet letters.

How many different types of sewing machines are there? It can be a challenge to understand all the subtle differences and all the major differences. Stitches vary not only in number, purpose, and design; they are made in different ways.

The least expensive modern sewing machine is described as a mechanical sewing machine. These machines depend on an AC electric motor to drive shafts, gears, levers, and belts. Across the top, a series of mechanical devices the needlebar. Across the bottom, another shaft drives the hook and feed systems.

The mechanical devices that produce stitches are in the hundreds. Levers (cam trackers) rub against a cam gear with grooves and bumps that cause these levers to move back and forth. This motion transfers across the machine to alter the needle bars movement. The result is a needle bar that rises and falls in various positions left to right to form desired stitches.

The alignment of the cam trackers is achieved by use of levers, buttons, or dials protruding on the top or face of the sewing machine. The user moves the stitch selector to the proper position, and the trackers line up to form that stitch. Additional dials or levers are used to adjust the stitch length and stitch width.

Sewing machines that use electronic controls and switches is called an electronic sewing machine. There is a wide range of machines in this category. Some use only limited electronics and depend largely on traditional mechanical systems. Others use electronic parts aggressively and may even include computer chip controls.

Electronic sewing machines significantly improve the smoothness, dependability, and ease of sewing machine use. Many more stitches are offered by electronic stitches.

The modern sewing machine like most other modern devices has been transformed by computerized technologies. The pre-programmed stitches and capabilities of the computerized sewing machine produces amazing results. It sews smoother. It sews easier. It sews with far greater potential. The computerized machine uses quiet DC pulse motors, stitch selection, and loads of convenience features.

Buttons, dials, and levers are used by mechanical machines to choose stitches.

On an electronic sewing machine, press a button attached to an electronic switch.

Touch the touch screen. Press a button on a keypad. Or, touch the button to choose stitches on a computerized sewing machine.

Take an inventory of your sewing machine. Cut a long piece of test fabric. Begin sewing a short row of each stitch your sewing machine offers. One by one make your way through every stitch your machine offers sew out each one and adjust the length and width of the stitches to see all the variations you have available. You may be surprised by what you find. If your sewing machine is a cheap mechanical machine, it may only have straight and zig zag stitches of various stitch function settings (varied stitch length and/or width). If you have a more expensive machine you may have twenty, fifty, a hundred, or even hundreds of different stitches. Make your own stitch set book. Cut your stitch selections into pieces about four inches long. Stack all your pieces one on top of each other. Sew a seam along one side and keep this stitch set for later reference.

Grasp the full potential of your sewing machine. Learn every stitch on your machine. Master the selection, settings, and use of each stitch. Then you will have real confidence sewing with your sewing machine.

About the Author:
Find out more about repairing sewing machines from Sewing Machine Technician David Trumble. Get one of his comprehensive sewing machine repair courses. Begin by getting his free beginner's sewing machine repair course.
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Repair Sewing Machine Tensions

Published on January 3, 2009 in Crafts. 0 Comments
by David Trumble

I cant stand it anymore. These tensions are all screwed up.

This and similar complaints are among the most common grievances expressed by sewing machine users. Excess threads bunch up under the fabric or bubble up on top of the fabric. The stitch may be fine for an inch or two, and then abruptly they screw up and the whole job is ruined.

There are many possible causes of bad sewing machine tension. One of the common causes of improper tension comes from faulty threading of the upper thread or bobbin assembly. Missing a thread guide, threads floating on top of the upper tension discs, or threads missing the bobbin tension can cause havoc with the stitch quality. Rough spots, worn surfaces, lint and debris, burrs on the hook, bad needles, and bad thread can also cause faulty tension.

Properly set tensions should produce stitches with the upper and lower thread locked together in the center of the fabric. When you look at the seam from the top side, you should see a smooth even flow of thread with tiny holes into the fabric. When you turn the fabric over, you should see exactly the same quality stitching as you saw from the top side. The stitches should be snug and show no extra threads on top or bottom.

Tension is simply the resistance created by the sewing machine to guide and manipulate the thread making it do what it is intended. When this resistance is adjusted correctly, the upper thread and lower thread mechanism balance each other. The result is a quality stitch without excess threads where they should not be.

Standing on top of your sewing machine is an imaginary little person. You might call them little people or gnome or leprechaun. He pulls on the thread from the top. Another little person is under the needle plate of your sewing machine. Each one is pulling on their thread. The one that pulls the strongest gets the most thread. If the fellow on top, pulls harder than the one below, you will see little puckers, wobbles, or balls of thread along the top of the fabric. If the little fellow on the bottom pulls harder, you will see bunches of tangled threads underneath the fabric. Only when they pull equally, do you see a proper stitch without excess threads.

Adjusting the tensions on your sewing machine is usually quite easy once you understand what your tension system is suppose to do. Your goal is to modify the drag on the thread until the resistance is equalized top to bottom " bottom to top.

The first thing you should do when you see messed up tensions, is to rethread the upper thread. Are you using a spool cap? Check for any rough spots that might snag the thread. Check for any debris or lint in the tension discs. Before threading the tension mechanism, lift the presser foot. Make sure everything is right. When you reach the needle, tug on the thread. It should draw smoothly with very little resistance. Put the presser foot down and pull again. Now there should be significant resistance.

The bobbin tension is usually more dependable than the upper tension. However, lint and debris can collect under the tension spring. Also if you change the size of bobbin thread, you will need to adjust the lower tension. To make this adjustment look for a tiny slotted screw pressing down on the bobbin tension spring. Turn right to tighten or left to loosen. You may prefer to have a professional make this adjustment if it is necessary.

Next, adjust the upper tension to equalize the lower tension. You may need to rely on some trial and error until you get it just right. Ignore the numbers on the tension dial, unless they are really low or really high. In this case you may need to disassemble the tension assembly to make the repair, or have a technician to do.

Always do a test seam on scrap materials before sewing a finished seam that will be seen. Adjust the tension on the stitch you plan to use until it is properly balanced. Note a straight stitch may appear balanced, but when you go to a zig zag or other stitch, it may not produce your perfect stitch. Always test before sewing your finished seam.

You may notice irregularities on one side of a zig zag stitch and not on the other. Test and adjust until it looks the best you can make it. Some machines have design issues that make a perfect zig zag stitch almost impossible. If you want a perfect stitch and you have one of these older machine, consider getting a better machine.

Now that you understand how your sewing machine tensions work, you can use your sewing machine with renewed confidence. Make the adjustments you need when you need them. Always remember, a trip to the sewing machine shop can relieve stress when all else fails.

About the Author:
Learn more about sewing machine tensions and sewing macine repair from Author David Trumble's sewing macine repair courses. Find your free copy of his beginning course 7 Steps To Peak Performance For Your Sewing Machine.
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